Fundamental Boxing Footwork and Shifting

Boxing footwork is one of the most important aspects of boxing in general. Good boxing footwork allows you to move towards your target to hit, and to get away when your opponent attacks.  There are a number of aspects to footwork:

1. Specifics skills and techniques that allow you to handle different situations.
2. Drills and training to give you the speed and endurance you need to last throughout the fight.
3. Timing and synchronization of your footwork with other aspects of your boxing such as defense and punching that better allow you to achieve your objective.
4. Different footwork techniques that change depending on your style of fighting and your overall strategy.

Boxing is a game of inches similar to fencing, it’s a dynamic sport, always moving.  A lot of beginner boxers are flat-footed and don’t realize how much they need to make small adjustments to better hit their target and effectively defend.

Here’s what happens when you don’t have good adjusting boxing footwork:

1. You will have a hard time getting to your target.
2. You will have a hard time defending and getting away from your opponent’s attack, it will seem like they are always on top of you with no where to go.
3. You will start to fatigue much quicker than normal because of the problems in 1 and 2.

In the video above I cover one of the most important aspects of boxing footwork and that is the ability to adjust distance in short quick movements.

Watch the video to get an idea of what’s required to make constant adjustments in the ring with boxing footwork.  Ideally, you will train for one round every workout just focusing on this type of training.

To really improve your footwork, check out the Footwork Training Camps available at Level 4 of the Membership.  However, if you still need to learn the fundamentals, then check out Level 3.

Drills – The Keys to Learning Boxing Footwork

The fundamentals of boxing footwork take a while to master and internalize.  One of the key ways to enhance this process is simply by working drills that focus on the necessary movements.  A focused approach to boxing footwork will get your footwork up to speed a lot faster than if you just hope for it to come together by doing regular training.

After working these drills, your footwork will be more fluid, your legs and calves will develop a more rhythmic and reactive bounce required in boxing.  Direction changes, stops and starts, moving while punching are incorporated and extremely important for boxing.

Drill 1 – First you will work side to side lateral motion with a pendulum step. Lateral motion is important for making yourself harder to hit and making your attacks less predicable.

Drill 2 – Is to get used to transitioning from lateral motion to forward and backward footwork, along with being able to do this on both sides to maintain balance in your development.

Drill 3 – Allows you to transition from moving to punching and back again, this is important for chasing down a moving opponent or getting away after throwing.  Of course, there are more advanced and tactical ways to do this, here we are working with a beginner drill.

In the video below are a couple of drills I’ve done for years. Perform these boxing footwork drills every workout for a month.

Lomachenko Boxing Footwork and Tactics

Lomachenko is amazing to watch, but there’s nothing secret about his boxing footwork. It’s just his ability to use superior tactics and timing to execute these fundamental footwork movements so well. Although it’s very unlikely you’ll ever be facing Lomachenko, we’ll go through the fundamentals of his footwork and tactics in a way that will enable you to add them into your training as drills that you can incorporate into your shadowboxing and sparring.

Let’s look at several different Lomachenko boxing footwork tactics. We’ll discuss them from the point of view of an orthodox fighter against a southpaw, but they can be used the other way round as well.

One of the common tactics an orthodox boxer can use against a southpaw, is to try to get outside of their opponent’s lead foot to then attack the right (blind) side. Most of the following footwork tactics do exactly this.

Jab, Step-Outside to set up the Body Shot

For this first move, you’ll work the jab, both with feints and committed shots to distract your opponent. This will disguise you taking a step with your lead foot to their right side. The key to this move is taking the step whilst throwing the jab. If you try to move after throwing the jab, your opponent will probably notice and will just square up to face you. Once you’ve stepped to the outside of your front foot will be loaded, putting you in position to throw the body shot.

1-2 or Right-Hand, Step-Outside to set up the Body Shot

To keep your opponent guessing, the next variation is to evolve the above tactic by swapping the jab for a 1-2 or just a right hand whilst stepping to the outside. Although the whole move is the same as the above, the variation will make it hard for your opponent to know what you’re doing next.

Faking the Step-Out and then Throwing the Right-Hand

You can build a response from your opponent by performing the above moves several times and then instead of committing to the step-out, you fake it and throw the right hand. This should catch them off-guard as they’ll be expecting you to move to their right, but instead you’ll be throwing a powerful straight shot.

Adding a Pivot instead of the Body Shot

This one is a further progression of either of the first two tactics above. Except, instead of finishing with the body shot, you use that time to pivot, giving yourself a better angle and further confusing your opponent. So again; step outside on either the jab, 1-2 or right hand. And instead of then throwing the body shot, you step your rear foot behind you, whilst pivoting on the ball of your front foot to rotate your stance even further to their off-side. You can then add any combination of punches to the end of this move.

Ducking the Counter

If your opponent throws a shot before you have a chance to step out, then this option is perfect. So instead of stepping straight outside on the jab, you wait for your opponent to return with their own shot and you duck (or roll) under their punch, to their outside, and then pivot and throw your combination. This move will definitely work your reactions as well as your footwork.

Skip to the Right instead of the Left

Another very effective tactic to use, once your opponent starts to get used to you using all of the variations of moving to their right, is to move to their left! This is a common tactic against a southpaw. The best way to execute this is, throw a shot, shift to your right, and then throw again from there.

This will be particularly effective if you’ve started to build a response from your opponent that you keep moving to their right. Once they expect that, you then fool them by going the opposite way.

Stepping Through

The final Lomachenko footwork tactic we’ll discuss is a bit harder to pull off. It is another variation of stepping to the opponent’s right side, but instead of the single step-out, it’s a step through from the cross. To set this up, you take a small step to your left as you throw the cross. Then skip step through, with your rear foot stepping to where the lead foot was on the cross. Finally, you add in the pivot to change angles. This will get you deep in behind your opponent as they turn to face you.

These are all fairly fundamental boxing footwork movements. However, Lomachenko makes them look so good through his next-level timing, visual reaction, conditioning, and tactical patterns. This doesn’t mean you can’t use these techniques, it just means you have to work harder to set them up by leading your opponent into thinking you’re going to do one thing, while you do something else.

The Pull and Pivot like Canelo

The Pull Counter isn’t something that always comes naturally in boxing. In fact, some boxers can have a hard time getting it right. If you learn to pull counter well, you’ll be less predictable and it will add a new dimension to your counter fighting. We’ll discuss how to train the pull counter and also look at using a boxing footwork pivot to change angles. Then we’ll go over combining both moves, with the pivot-pull. This will not only open up options in your counter but also your defence.

Pull Counter Breakdown

The key to a good pull counter is developing your body’s elasticity for this movement. This elasticity comes from the calves and the upper body. Rather than a stop-start, back-forward movement, it’s more a case of using your body’s kinetic elasticity to spring into the counter. Imagine pulling a baby tree backwards and then letting it go. It’ll spring forward with a lot of force. This is the basic principle of pulling back momentarily to store the elastic energy and then releasing it forwards into a rapid counter.

Do the following to start working this technique:

Practice taking a small step back. Except you want to ‘fall back’ onto your rear leg. Feel the calf absorbing your weight and coming under tension, building up the energy to spring forward.

Practice your layback defence. Although this is quite a common defensive move, it’s more a case of focusing on feeling the tension build up as you lean back and then releasing it to help spring your upper body forward.

Combine the two.  So as you drop your weight onto the back foot you’ll be adding a lean-back/lay-back defence. Focus on feeling the tension build up in your calf and abs and then releasing the tension forwards. As you get used to this, remember to keep your chin tucked into your chest.

Two Main Types of Pull Counters

The two main types of Pull Counter you should practice are the straight lean back and the square lean back.

With the straight lean back, you maintain your upper body stance, keeping your torso side-on to your opponent.

Whilst the square lean back, you open your torso to your opponent. So your leading shoulder rotates away from them.

These two types of pull counter allow you to throw different shots off of each.

The straight pull keeps you in position for the jab and cross, whilst the square pull sets up your body for the lead hook.

After a few weeks of practice, this should start to feel more natural. Once you’re comfortable with the step back and both types of pull, start to add in your counter punches.

Start with the straight lean back and return with the jab, then try the cross and finally try adding the lead hook to the square pull.

Keep it loose and relaxed, feeling the rocking back and forward motion.

Once you feel the bounce, your body will naturally develop some elasticity in this movement. It shouldn’t be a forced pull-push movement. If you’re having to ‘muscle’ or force the movement, then give yourself more time to focus on the lean back.

Pivot-Pull Manoeuvre

So let’s go over the pivot-pull boxing footwork manoeuvre that Canelo used to get off the ropes effectively, in his fight against GGG. This move combines an angle changing pivot, with the pull that we discussed above. It can be a very effective defensive move. So first, let’s have a quick look at just the pivot method.

Pivot – Breakdown

The pivot is a defensive move. Make sure you have more weight on your rear foot, with your knees bent, in a relaxed stance. If your front foot is loaded then you’ll struggle to pivot properly. To perform the move, you step your rear foot behind you, whilst pivoting (rotating) on the ball of your lead foot. You should end up with your whole stance rotated 90 degrees to where you started.

Being a defensive move, I also like to lift my shoulder and tuck my chin, a bit like a ‘Philly shell’. This just adds an extra level of defence. Practice the pivot and add it into your sparring before trying to combine with the pull.

Once you’ve mastered both the pull and pivot separately it’s time to combine them into one smooth move.

The pivot starts the movement. If you try to pull first then you’ll be off balance. So first pivot and once the pivot has been initiated, start to simultaneously pull.

You’ll end up 90 degrees to your opponent with your head well off the centre line. If you get your timing right, even a big overhand right will struggle to connect.

If you need to put even more distance between you and your opponent, in order to escape the ropes, then you can add in a step.

To get this right, first, try adding in a small step with your front foot in the direction you’ll be pivoting.

Then perform the pivot-pull.

Keep the step small and fast, and it should be unnoticeable to your opponent, but it will add even more distance to your escape.

Overall this is a very slick defensive manoeuvre that Canelo used to effectively get off the ropes and create space. I also noticed that he would turn his head to look away as he pulled the move, but this isn’t something textbook that I would recommend trying unless you’re a very experienced boxer or want to just try it for fun. It’s an advanced move and pushes your face even further away from the incoming attack, but you take the risk of losing sight of your opponent.

Boxing Footwork Drills and Tactics

Pivot Pivot Go

As it can be difficult to go from zero motion to moving straight forward, this boxing footwork drill gives you that initial movement, allowing you to launch forward. So you perform a pivot one way (your rear-foot steps behind you, whilst rotating on the ball of your foot) and then quickly shift to pivoting the opposite way and then move forward. You can also pivot one way, then back to the centre, then back to the way you pivoted and then go forward with your attack. It’s key to keep your back foot engaged to maintain pressure. This is a good move if your opponent takes off and you want to chase them down.

Drop Step

This boxing footwork move is great for gaining ground and creating an angle whilst moving to the right. To perform this move you drop your weight and almost fall onto your lead foot. This loads the foot ready for the shot. From here with good balance you can throw a left hook or a right hand quite effectively. This move works best moving to the right, but you can also throw in a feint to the left first and then switch it to the right.

A variation on this is to throw the jab and then back skip into the drop step and drop your head if you want to come straight on to your opponent. This is one of my favourite moves for coming in and applying pressure.

Another option is to switch angles off the right hand. Perform the drop step as above, moving forwards, but then use the motion of the right hand to switch angles and move off to the right. This is different to simply moving right into the drop step, as you’re coming forwards and then moving right off the right cross. The other good thing about this move is that you can use this multiple times to maintain pressure on the opponent if they’re moving to the left (your right) whilst constantly throwing your powerful right hand.

 

Moving To The Right While Punching

In this article, we’re going to cover moving to the right with your boxing footwork, whilst still throwing your offence. There are a few good reasons why this is a great skill to develop:

Reason #1: As an outside fighter facing a pressure fighter, your opponent will have a hard time getting in on you if you can throw a long jab whilst moving to the right. This works well if they aren’t very experienced. It works because as they come straight at you, you’re fading away to their left. If they decide to come around to the outside of your jab, then it’s easy to turn to face them and keep them at bay with the jab. Or if they decide to try and cut in on the inside, they’ll be walking into your shots.

Reason #2: It works well against southpaws on the alternate angle, in other words stepping inside. You often hear about trying to get your lead foot to the outside of the southpaw’s lead foot, but moving to the right can actually give them something unexpected to deal with.

Reason #3: It can be a little unorthodox. Your opponent may not be used to this approach. It can also be used to set up an angle against them.

Reason #4: You can fade right while moving backwards, setting up an angle and creating distance simultaneously.

That’s four good reasons why this is a great skill to develop. So now let’s look at the footwork involved in being able to move to the right whilst punching.

Variations To The Method

Variation 1 –  step the lead foot across in front of the rear foot, but slightly forward as you throw the jab. Just to clarify, you’re not ‘crossing’ your legs, you’re cross-walking whilst pumping the jab. By moving slightly forward on each step your jab will have more power. Whereas, if you only move to the right, then you’ll only have arm power in your shots.

Pro tip: Throw the jab with a vertical fist (thumb up), rather than pronating the hand as you normally would. This will help to avoid making contact with the small knuckles, as you stretch the jab out. If you want to add the right hand into this movement, by throwing a 1-2, then make sure you step the rear foot out a bit wider as you throw the right. This will give you extra stability and give you more power.

Variation 2 – This method will help you close the distance more by dropping your weight into the right hand. So as above, you step the lead foot across, in-line with the rear foot and slightly forward on the jab. Then as you step the rear foot out for the right hand, you drop slightly onto it, almost falling into it. Remembering to step the lead foot forward just after you fall into the rear foot to maintain your stance.

Variation 3 – This move will really capitalize on your movement to the right, there’s an option for settling up an angle on your opponent. This will allow you to throw further combinations and can help to catch your opponent off-guard.The method to use is the lead hook to set up the angle shift. So start by throwing a right hand, or 1-2 and then you add a lead hook. As you throw the lead hook, you’re propelling off your lead foot, to shift your whole body forwards and to your right, to about a 45-degree angle. The key to this movement, is getting your head just outside of your opponent’s left shoulder, outside the danger zone.

Variation 4 – Another option is to fade right whilst moving backwards. So here you use the fundamental footwork of moving backwards whilst punching. So you throw the rear hand as you step the rear foot back, and you throw the lead hand as you step the lead foot back. The only difference is that you are fading right slightly with every step.

So while most of your offence will come straight in with different combinations, level changes, fakes and even the typical movement to the left. Here we covered moving to the right to mix things up and become less predictable, it can also help take the steam out of aggressive pressure fighters.

Punching While Moving Backwards

The main thing I feel distinguishes a beginner from an intermediate fighter, is the ability of intermediate fighters to use boxing footwork to punch while moving backwards. Most beginners can punch while moving forwards, but when they’re going backwards they’re on the defence. Another thing that intermediate boxers do a lot better than beginners, is to hold their ground defensively in the pocket. Having the ability to use blocks, slips and covers to conserve energy without taking any major damage. However, in this article we’ll cover the first intermediate attribute, moving backwards while punching.

We’ll discuss the fundamentals of this aspect of boxing footwork, and then we’ll look at some variations with different combos you can throw while moving backwards. You can practice all of these techniques while shadow boxing or on the heavy bag.

The Single Step Back

Probably the most basic boxing footwork technique for moving backwards is the single step back with right hand. This is one that you’ll often see Floyd Mayweather use when his opponent is pressuring him on the inside. To practice this on a bag, first get the bag swinging towards and away from you. Then in your stance, time it so that as the bag swings towards you, you take a step backwards with your rear leg and throw the rear hand. This will work particularly well if you have a range advantage over your opponent, as they’ll run into your punch as they move forward.

A variation on this is to swap the right hand for the left hook. So as you take the step back, throw the left hook, remembering to pivot on the ball of your lead foot. The same applies if you want to swap the hook for the jab, except you won’t be rotating on the ball of the foot as you’ll be shuffling back with the lead foot.

When you get better and your opponent is still pressuring you, you may miss the first shot, that’s fine. Just continue to throw shots and move.

Throwing Multiple Shots

You can also try multiple shots. For example, the right hand followed by the left hook. Again this will mean stepping back on the right hand and then pivoting on the ball of the lead foot for the hook. Also try doubling-up the left hook. The key is you’re stepping back with your rear foot on each shot.

However, you don’t always have to step back when you throw the right hand. It depends on the distance between you and the opponent. If you want to hold your ground, then don’t step back on the right hand, instead throw it as a normal cross. This can be particularly effective as your opponent gets used to you moving back and they over commit when coming forward.

Good fighters will be able to work on the outside like this and then when they hit their opponent, they close in and follow up with a combo. Working on this instinct of following up will give you the ability to attack more aggressively, whilst moving forwards and backwards.

Move Back, then Throw Your Shot

Another technique is to clear space first for safety, gauge the distance and then throw your punch. For this technique, you skip back first to create the space and then step back and throw. Obviously, you don’t have to just go straight back, you can move away with direction to create angles. If your opponent is closing really fast, try two in a row. So skip back, step back punch and repeat.

Southpaw Boxing Footwork

In this article, we’ll take a look at some southpaw footwork, including how to deal with the pressure of ‘machine gun punchers’. A perfect example of the application of these techniques is the Holly Holm Vs Rhonda Rousey fight, where Holly Holm managed to control the pace of the fight using her footwork.

Stay on the Outside

The main strategy when coming up against ‘machine gun punchers’ is to stay on the outside. The best example of this is the rematch between Sugar Ray Leonard and Roberto Duran. You need to get on to the outside of your opponent with speed and create distance. Although you can’t run around your opponent all-day, you do have the advantage that you can attack first. The key to executing this effectively is being able to attack from motion.

So if we go back to the Holm-Rousey fight as our working example. Holm’s game plan was to stay on the outside, move to her left (Rousey’s right), attack from motion and then spin back out to her right (Rousey’s left). This worked, because it’s very hard for orthodox fighters to maintain pressure going to their right. Every time they throw the right hand, they’ll get locked down for a split second.

It’s the left foot of the southpaw that initiates the movement back to the right, the key is the rock back from left to right which allows you to set-up the right hook and pivot. The other thing we saw Holm do was the duck-under, to her right as Rousey threw the hook, she then back-skipped through and out of range. This is another good idea if you are under a lot of pressure.

Using Boxing Footwork to Attack from Motion

The next thing is a bit more complicated but allows attacks in motion. So as you’re moving to your left, using the left-right step-step motion, you suddenly step the right foot forward, instead of to the left. This happens just after planting the left foot, giving you a solid footing and the extra range to set up the long left hand. If the orthodox fighter moves to their right to try and cut you off then you can use the pivot-out spin to your right to escape.

So these are a few footwork tactics that can work for southpaws against orthodox fighters. Of course there are techniques that the orthodox fighters can use to counter these techniques, but there’s lots of separate information on that.

 

Advanced Boxing Footwork with the Gazelle Punch

In this article, we’ll go over a boxing footwork move often referred to as the gazelle punch. It’s a move that allows you to throw your left hand whilst moving forward. Often it’ll follow the right hand that you miss, or if your opponent is retreating.

It’s a move that’s not necessarily for everyone. Some people can be sceptical of it, as they worry they’ll probably run into a straight right hand. However, I would urge you to do some research and try this yourself, because it’s used very effectively by some big names in boxing. A few good examples are: Roy Jones Jnr against Montell Griffin in the rematch knockout, Tyson, Ricky Hatton and Floyd Mayweather.

Usually, when you’re moving forward, you’ll be shuffling. Although this depends on the punches you’re throwing. Imagine you’re throwing a 1-2-3 while shifting forward, when you come to throw the third punch many people will step the rear foot forward to close the distance. I personally prefer to stretch the lead foot forward. Either way you’re stepping forward.

However, if you have an opponent who’s good at retreating quickly or is hard to catch. Particularly after you throw the right hand. Then the fastest way to cover the extra ground and land the left is with the gazelle punch.

Gazelle Punch Basics

So let’s breakdown this technique. It starts when you throw your right hand, at this point your stance should be low, legs bent and loaded. Your upper body should be upright, not leaning forward. Then to launch the gazelle punch, twist your torso from the hips (to power the punch) and simultaneously hop forward and throw the left hand. You don’t want to twist your whole body and land in a pivoted position, otherwise your punch power will fade out with the twist. Also, stay low. Don’t jump up and forward, otherwise you’ll present a bigger target and you’re likely to get hit.

The gazelle punch doesn’t have to be a left hook, although this can feel the most natural. You can throw the uppercut, shovel hook, or even a straight. If you miss the punch, then you can keep going, by repeating the whole move again.

Setting it up off the Slip

You don’t have to set up the gazelle punch off the right hand either. You can set it up from a slip or a fake to your outside. These movements will both load you up ready for the hop.

Another way to set it up, is from the slip-jab. So throw one jab, then slip to your inside for the slip-jab, then roll under to your outside. The outside roll will load you ready for the hop and punch.

It’s important when you throw this, to have the ability to be able to move back quickly. So practice throwing it and then springing back, or throwing it and then pivoting out. Integrate it into your sparring and try all the variations above. You’ll probably find it can be a very effective weapon when timed well.

Lateral Motion and Rhythm with Boxing Footwork

In this article, we’ll discuss how you can use lateral motion and rhythm in your boxing footwork to get inside against a taller long-range opponent. The first key to getting past anyone with a longer range is that you don’t want to be right in front of them. This is where lateral motion, head movement and rhythm come in. Once you get this right, then your entries will become a lot less predictable.

It’s worth bearing in mind, this skill isn’t only for the shorter fighter. It will also work for taller fighters, when it comes to setting up shots. Great examples of a taller fighter who used this well, is Tommy Hearns. A good example of a mid-range fighter is Marvin Hagler, and of course great examples of short range fighters are Mike Tyson and Manny Pacquiao.

When you’re in your stance, there are several ways you can start your attack. The first is to go straight in. If you’re up against a taller fighter, this is one of the worst ways to go, especially if you are standing still in front of your opponent. It will make it easy for them to see your attacks coming because you’ll be going from non-movement to movement.

Lateral Motion

So one of the first tactics to work on is lateral motion. Start by drilling your basic left and right movement. Work on both the walk and the gallop. This is the first step in making yourself harder to hit. A moving target is much harder to hit than a stationary one, but your head is only as mobile as your feet. So you still need to rely on your guard, and even with great lateral movement, it’s not going to be easy to get in on your target. So it’s important to add in some additional techniques to make your entries a lot less predictable.

Dips

The dip will move your head off the centre line and will make you harder to hit. To dip you simply drop your head and shoulder slightly, in the direction you’re moving, whilst also leaning into the movement. The dip can also work as a fake for certain entries as well.

Rhythm

Your rhythm is a rhythmic ‘tick-tock’ movement of your head from right to left. It’s very important for making you less predictable. Let’s have a look at why this is so important.

There are five main ways to get in on the jab:

• Go straight in
• Step and slip left and then jab
• Step and slip right and then jab
• Drop low and jab to the body
• Slip and straight jab

Jab Telegraph Points

All of these entries have their own telegraph (tell) point. For example, if you were to slip left and then jab, your opponent will see your head move first. By developing a good habit of using your rhythm, you’ll keep your opponent guessing what attack is coming next. You could be about to launch an attack, or you could simply be performing your normal rhythm, it will become very difficult for them to tell the difference. The key to this is practicing it and getting your body in shape for it.

Start with the following drill to build up your ability. Start with the rhythm of moving your head left, then right then left. However on the second left movement, dip and step off to your left. Then try left, right left and then dip and step off to your right. You don’t have to work it in threes, you could practice the tick-tock several times and then move off with a dip after several head movements. Once you’re happy with this rhythm, you can start to add fakes, attacks and other movements off the tick-tock. You can also use add a duck into this rather than a dip.

Once this becomes fluid and you are using the whole variety of movement options, you’ll become very unpredictable. This will make it much easier for you to get in on your opponent. You may find that once you’re moving laterally, it can be a harder to move forwards. To overcome this, you may need to slow your feet down just a little bit before you move forwards, to stay balanced.

Work this on its own; with your footwork; in your bag-work; in your shadow boxing; and then start to do it in your sparring. If you’re a shorter fighter you’ll find it easier to get in on long-range, taller opponents. If you’re a taller opponent it’ll help you set up your shots more effectively.

 

Change Angles and Direction in Your Punch Combination

Let’s take a look at a useful boxing footwork technique that will help you change direction during your combos. This works particularly well, if you get frustrated when facing outside fighters who are evasive. Especially if you spend a lot of effort cutting them off, only for them to slip away again. This method will allow you to move with your opponent while throwing your combo and keeping the pressure on.

This technique works best off the left hand, or jab. It happens in two scenarios. The first, is when you have your opponent up against the ropes. He’s waiting for you, and then as soon as you launch your attack he slips away. The second scenario, is the opponent who drops their hands and poses. Trying to lure you into throwing a straight shot, so that as soon as you do, they can slip, throw a shot over the top, and then take off.

Breaking Down the Technique

Normally when you throw the jab, both feet are going to shuffle or step into it. The same with the one-two. Instead of this, you step your lead foot forward as you throw the jab. Rather than completing the jab, you quickly skip your rear foot to where your lead foot started (loading the rear foot) and skip your lead foot out to the left. Both steps happen almost simultaneously, like a quick shuffle. Then you continue your combination.

It’s a good idea to duck on the skip step because it allows you to drop your weight into it and therefore move off quicker. Of course, this also gives you more protection against any incoming shots.

This also works off the double jab. Simply throw your normal jab with a step in and then add this skip off, on the second jab, as soon as your opponent starts to move away.

The same thing goes for moving right. Again you jab and then simultaneously step the lead foot forward, skip your rear foot to where your lead foot started, then your lead foot skips out to the right. However when moving to the right, slip to the right at the same time. Again this will give you protection and load your feet for faster movement. It will look like a quick pivot, as you end up changing direction. Again you can throw this one off the double jab as well.

This move isn’t about cutting off the ring to your opponent, as you should already have him cut off. It’s all about maintaining pressure and being able to throw, whilst moving with your opponent. It works best off the lead hand, but it also works off the rear hand, it’s just a bit harder. It’s best to practice this in your shadow boxing, rather than on the bag because the bag doesn’t move with you. Of course try this in sparring if your partner is an evasive fighter, then you’ll see how you can keep the pressure on.